Question about clip cord

Hey guys! Beginner here, so my apologies if this is a stupid question but I've researched it everywhere and didn't find an answer, so hopefully you guys can help!

I've bought my first tattoo machine. It came in a kit from Killer Ink. I've set it up successfully but then came across an issue when connecting the clip cord to the machine. Apparently the hole in the armature bar is not deep enough for a stable connection. More than half of the metal from the clip cord stays out, which makes it jump out after two seconds the machine is on. The kit came with a second machine that presents the same issue, which makes me wonder about the possibility that it's me the one who is doing something wrong. I mean, what's the probability of getting two different machines with exactly the same issue?

So my question is: is this normal and I'm the one who is doing something wrong or do both machines indeed have a defect?

Picture:

Thanks in advance!

You have your clip cord on the wrong way, your clip cord is in the wrong position in the rear binding post. It shoul be this way around.

Chustik said:

You have your clip cord on the wrong way, your clip cord is in the wrong position in the rear binding post. It shoul be this way around.

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Oh ?

Thank you!

We all have simple questions which, answered, bring a tremendous light on what was wrong!

Peace,

DKJ

it was the wrong way, and I'd say that was contributing some to your problem, but the top portion of the machine (the spring deck) is super thin. So, the likelihood that you have 2 machines that are "bad" with the same problem is 100%, because they were both made the same. That's just the nature of kit machines. Use them to get the hang of how to setup and basic control, but know that you're going to replace them with something better and half of your "problems" will go away.

Here's a stock picture of one of mine from Workhorse Irons to show the difference in size in the spring deck.

x

marked 4 life said:

Also just looking at the machine, that is going to run like shit by the looks of the rear spring angle and air gap, that machine may actually be the shader

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In the kit they say it can be used both as a liner and a shader ?

aloevera said:

In the kit they say it can be used both as a liner and a shader ?

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because they know most people don't know the difference in the characteristics. Any machine can be used as either...doesn't mean it is the best option

aloevera said:

In the kit they say it can be used both as a liner and a shader ?

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it "can" be, but it's not really setup for anything right now. From the angle, that air gap between the armature bar and the coil is far too tight and barely open enough to budge the needle. You can get them working enough to practice on fake skin, but you'll want to do some reading on machine setup for each purpose. Start by backing that contact screw out a bit. The one I showed above is a liner if that helps.

You might want to join the premium section. There's a lot of good info there on setup that will go a long way to help you out.

x

These are the machines that came in the kit:

The one on the right side is the one I showed in the previous pic.
So I suppose the one on the left is more appropriate as a liner?
I know very very little about tattoo machines. I wanted to have the machines with me so I could start to learn from watching, touching and experimenting with them (and researching about them, of course), and that's the reason why I ordered a kit and not a propper machine ? By no means I would sacrifice a human being on this, I just run them on fake skin and fruits for at least some months!

You guys are very helpful and I must thank you for your time and patience ❤

x

best thing you can do to make them run better, get rid of the o-ring under the front spring, and turn the contact screw out a bit.

Thank you!