My first tattoo lines on myself.


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Leonemalo

Basic
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17 Feb 2022
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Leonardo
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Hello everyone,

So I just went with it and start a little something on my upper leg.
I was anxious AF and the pain did not really help. Tried to regulate my breathing..went ok after a while.
I find it a much better practice on my own skin then on fake skin and don’t really care if the tattoos are not that good on my self.

I used a 1207RL on 7.5 volts and a stroke of 3.2.

I think the most difficult part for me was the depth. In the future I will make it solid black when I’m confident enough..😅

Will appreciate some feedback and curious what you guys can see I did wrong. Thanks in advance!!👍




7979-B315-CFDA-4-AD3-ACEC-A6263174-C51-B.jpg
 

wrighty

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Hello mate .
That’s really good for first ever Tatto.
I’m no expert but I think it’s great for first go .
I think once you get the consistent speed and depth the lines will look solid and cleaner .

really good though !
Maybey before you fill it solid black you could practice smooth shading in it ?
Well done mate .
S
 

Leonemalo

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Leonardo
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Male
Hello mate .
That’s really good for first ever Tatto.
I’m no expert but I think it’s great for first go .
I think once you get the consistent speed and depth the lines will look solid and cleaner .

really good though !
Maybey before you fill it solid black you could practice smooth shading in it ?
Well done mate .
S

thanks man! Really appreciate it.
The shading is a great idea and will definitely do that, stupid I did not think of it myself, why waste the space right? Haha
 

hdlc

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looks nice for it being your first. I recently did my year above the knee. i used a bishop wand with 9 rs12 and 9 m12. might have overdone it with the 9m.
 

whippet

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Solo
Not bad as a start and as your skills improve you could build on this to create a more ornamental piece of lettering…not simply blocking it in, that would be a waste of prime real estate. This would also allow you to correct some of the errors that you mentioned in your depth.

Just a note on your set up description.

Stating volts doesn’t really mean anything unless people know what machine you have AND they have experience of that machine. Different machines/motors will run at totally different speeds at the same volts.

I’m not trying to sound pedantic about this, but the number we should all be talking about is the CPS (Cycles Per Second), as we can better relate this to our own machines. You can find tech specs for a lot of machines that will specify the CPS at different voltage settings.
 

Leonemalo

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Netherlands
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Leonardo
Gender
Male
looks nice for it being your first. I recently did my year above the knee. i used a bishop wand with 9 rs12 and 9 m12. might have overdone it with the 9m.
Thnx man! That is awesome, do you have a pic?😁
 

Leonemalo

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Joined
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Messages
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Netherlands
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Leonardo
Gender
Male
Not bad as a start and as your skills improve you could build on this to create a more ornamental piece of lettering…not simply blocking it in, that would be a waste of prime real estate. This would also allow you to correct some of the errors that you mentioned in your depth.

Just a note on your set up description.

Stating volts doesn’t really mean anything unless people know what machine you have AND they have experience of that machine. Different machines/motors will run at totally different speeds at the same volts.

I’m not trying to sound pedantic about this, but the number we should all be talking about is the CPS (Cycles Per Second), as we can better relate this to our own machines. You can find tech specs for a lot of machines that will specify the CPS at different voltage settings.

thanks for the feedback! Need to see where I can find the cps of my machine, sure will be somewhere like you said.

Definitely going to make good use of the space I have 😁👍🏻.

What do you think of the size needle I have used? And what size and kind do you think will be good for the shading or packing?
 

whippet

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thanks for the feedback! Need to see where I can find the cps of my machine, sure will be somewhere like you said.

Definitely going to make good use of the space I have 😁👍🏻.

What do you think of the size needle I have used? And what size and kind do you think will be good for the shading or packing?
The line weight you’ve ended up with from a 1207RL suggests that you may have gone in a bit deep. So I think the line weight is fine but maybe use a 9 or 11 to reduce the trauma on the skin.

From my experience, I’d say two things on packing…others may offer alternative advice:

If I line heavily in black (like this) and then fill, I use a round shader to ensure I get the same density of black when it heals. I know it shouldn’t matter, but it has for me in the past. I’d use a 14-18RS. I recognise that RS configurations are more likely to traumatise the skin if used incorrectly and/or with less experience.

If I was using a mag to fill, and if you’re shading to the centre and leaving open skin I’d recommend a mag, I follow the same principle for all my work. As bog as I can go without sacrificing accuracy, maybe a 15M on this, flat mag for solid packing, curved mag (possibly) if I have to whip to open skin.

FINALLY….you might find a RS gets the corners in for you, and a mag allows you to get the bigger filled areas in quickly and with less trauma.

As said at the start, others may have a totally different method. Good luck with it and keep posting
 

Leonemalo

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Joined
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Messages
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Netherlands
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Leonardo
Gender
Male
The line weight you’ve ended up with from a 1207RL suggests that you may have gone in a bit deep. So I think the line weight is fine but maybe use a 9 or 11 to reduce the trauma on the skin.

From my experience, I’d say two things on packing…others may offer alternative advice:

If I line heavily in black (like this) and then fill, I use a round shader to ensure I get the same density of black when it heals. I know it shouldn’t matter, but it has for me in the past. I’d use a 14-18RS. I recognise that RS configurations are more likely to traumatise the skin if used incorrectly and/or with less experience.

If I was using a mag to fill, and if you’re shading to the centre and leaving open skin I’d recommend a mag, I follow the same principle for all my work. As bog as I can go without sacrificing accuracy, maybe a 15M on this, flat mag for solid packing, curved mag (possibly) if I have to whip to open skin.

FINALLY….you might find a RS gets the corners in for you, and a mag allows you to get the bigger filled areas in quickly and with less trauma.

As said at the start, others may have a totally different method. Good luck with it and keep posting
Thanks a lot for the help. I will try what you suggest and will let you know how it went😁!
 

Leonemalo

Basic
Joined
17 Feb 2022
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18
Location
Netherlands
First Name
Leonardo
Gender
Male
It's upsidedown but you can see where I overdid it with the 9m and changed direction with the stippling
Looks good for my inexperienced eye😝. So where you changed direction is where the solid black is a different color?
 

hdlc

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henry
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It's the same value. Just turned the volts and did some stippling.

This image I attached has 3 values in the shading and solid black for the lining
 

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