Have been looking for a decent power supply and gotta pedal for a decent price
that'd be the one I'm saving for. I scoured the web and bought a TatSoul Nash for the shop (prettier Critical Atom). My Hurricane 2 actually has 6 presets
I was wanting one of those. Couldn't afford it and needed something clean immediately.I use a Workhorse power supply V2 now, switched because the lab power supply took up a lot of space.
If you're looking in the $50 price range, just grab whatever (Bronc usually copies Hurricane, who copies Critical). They're all going to have various issues. Stress it more when you're looking for something more long term that will provide good clean power to use on clients.anyone have any experience with the bronc power supplies? was looking at the ones similar to the hurricane and the biomaster soulstare posted.
the need for multiple memory settings is so necessary imo. and yea inconsistent machine is usually due to cable, power supply issues, OR capacitor.it's not so much the fancy buttons & displays - but the working components.
I have a critical & have used eikon's; as well as some junk ones too. Even though they kinda slam the critical in that vid - i get good results & if i'm reading the numbers for my coil machines (which i don't use anymore) - as long as they are consistent to it'self (basically the same numbers on the same PS on the same machine) i'm good with that.
i would rather use a 10$ chinese coil machine w/a the MusoToku than a top of the line rotary w/a hurricane or similar.
I've never used a lab PS... but thousands of old school master's can't be wrong. of course... how they will work on modern rotaries i have no clue.
curious what the issues are, i've used some cheap ones and they end up changing voltage during use or something after a few months.If you're looking in the $50 price range, just grab whatever (Bronc usually copies Hurricane, who copies Critical). They're all going to have various issues. Stress it more when you're looking for something more long term that will provide good clean power to use on clients.
Basically that. Inconsistent voltage, choppy voltage, inconsistent current is a really bad one. 8 voltage is cool, but if it isn't getting to the machine at the right speed it ain't doing any good. Usually that will require you to compensate with increased voltage to balance it out. I have machines that run on 5.5V to 6V on my critical but barely even start moving on the Hurricane until you get up to 7 and they don't do their job until at least 7.5. Then you deal with excess heat because the voltage is higher.curious what the issues are, i've used some cheap ones and they end up changing voltage during use or something after a few months.
They're not consistent. They're prone to current spikes or drops and the parts can easily burn up (literally). I want clean power that will run the same voltage and amps at all times rather than something that's chopping out and making my machine run slower than my hand.Hey guys, sorry if I'm just clueless, maybe this is a stupid question. But I wanted to ask why the need for such good (expensive) power supplies? I get the memory settings and dual sockets and that but is the power any different? Or is it more peace of mind that it's not gunna bug out on you? I'm guessing that's an issue if you work in a shop.
I'm only asking because I run a £5 Chinese crappy supply, but I've tested it with a volt meter and a couple of apps that read cps and it seems consistent. I even had to do a ciggie packet foil and super glue connection where I had no solder and it's had alot of hours on it since haha. I'm mostly only tattooing myself though and i got a homemade DD that runs ok at 5volts so can use a phone charger if I'm in a jam.
Just buy a lab power supply. Main reason i bought a Tattoo Power Supply is that it looks "pro", but it acts exactly the same as my Lab one.
Things that are made for tattooing are just more expensive, kind of like slapping gaming on a chair and selling it for tripple the price.
Bought the cheapest one with good reviews on amazon. You crank the current all the way, the machine takes the amps it needs.Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread but I'm guessing old mate got his ps. I'm thinking now about making or buying lab style ps. I would love some advice on what kinda specs to look for. The more I look into it the more confusing it is, so far I'm thinking I don't need the adjustable current that alot have but a 2 or 3a with adjustable voltage on the lower scale eg. Max 20v. I figure that would be more accurate for the lower volts we use?? Any advice would be really helpful thanks