Christ, none of my coils would run at under 2 volts unless they had virtually no throw and rizla thin springs! But at £400 for one that does I'll stick to paying the electricity board for the extra few volts.
Not strictly 100% true, take into account spring gauge, throw etc .... and bear in mind the cart is spring (or elastic band) loaded so you can have 2 lots of give lol! a coil could end up too soft hitting so you would need to crank the volts up to get the hit to penetrate the skin, if the machine is not tuned for this then it will get very, very noisy and the coils will get hot, anyway I wont comment again on this topic.Coils and rotarys.... like all the modern carts.
Although I am a newbie here, and know little to nothing compared to you guys who are experienced, I do agree that we all need to remain friendly and not insult each other. Just my opinion. I am glad of any help I get, and thank you for it gladly. On a lighter note, I would appreciate if at some time in the near future I could sit in on a session with someone in the Stoke on Trent area, get some knowledge and tips by observing. I'm willing to brew the tea![]()
Me neither because there seems to be an expert posting.
dedication? would you like to elaborate? personally i feel that wanting to be a decent artist, and buying all that i can as i can afford is pretty dedicated lol
all noted thanks, but i think I have a basic understanding of lines and shades, although i do know in the inking world it will differ to my art at college all those millennia ago. I am practicing, i did a freehand straight off with the machine, lined and coloured on rubber, and then a black and grey depicting my close friends work life. but I am willing to put in the hours, Just rand greens and i can get a steady flow of skin from them.
I will say this, the shading is not so simple on rubber as it is on paper, but i did managed to get the mottled underwater effect on it that i wanted.
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In terms of conventions, I can not move far from the home presently for reasons of Wife's health, but will when I can.
I have a Sharpz Microdial and a couple of Rotary Works ID liners now. Used all three on different recent pieces trying to find best option.
Previously I used only coils for lining, a few 'no names' to start with, including a couple of aluminium bodies my dad manufactured for me, moving on to a Sharpz hybrid, which was never tuned optimally for lining but did OK with a slow(ish) hand speed.
Best liner I had (still have) was a single-coil machine, unidentified brand despite posting a few pictures on a different forum. I don't use this now as it has a normal screw for the tube vise. Was a bit slow but light and ran smooth, easy to tune.
What do you think of the id liners? I got a 4.2 one and struggle so bad with getting a decent line.
The ID has been "ok" for me, though I've been thinking twice about it recently, as I had some problems that I believe were down to lack of punch on slightly softer flesh (back of arms). Last piece I did was with my Microdial and (IMO) was a bit fierce for the design, a veined feather.
I did some lining on myself today as part of a coverup, riding the tubes rather than hanging the needles. Where I am right now, this is more of an issue for me, though I had some reasonable results with the ID and a 7RL. I know this is not conclusive in any way, but just highlights the issues with personal choice, styles and our different comfort zones. I want to master my Microdial, just not sure how at the minute.
To add to my slow progress...I'm recovering from knee surgery and that's slowed down the whole operation, totally frustrated.
No, in fact quieter, they buzz really nice now, there are some videos amongst these posts when the guy tuned them, I was intending to send my other 3 machines off but the 4 I have had done will probably be all I need now.Andy, after your machines were tuned with no o rings were they noisy?